A rather rare, very unusual wine… Cederberg Bukettraube

BUKETTRAUBE can be a lovely aromatic white wine, so why is David Nieuwoudt's outfit among the Cederberg mountains the only top South African producer that makes one? Well, this is a grape variety particularly susceptible to downy/powdery mildew, a serious disease that can cause severe crop loss and which is fond of humid conditions – not something that troubles the farmers at high altitude in the dry, rocky, arid Cederberg, where temperatures range from warm summers to very cold winters. And these vineyards are isolated – so should there be an outbreak of downy mildew outside the Cederberg, there is virtually zero chance of the spores surviving the wind-born trip up and over the mountains to Nieuwoudt's place.

There are other Bukettraube vineyards in the country, such as in hot, dry areas within the Swartland, Darling, Paarl and Wellington districts, however… As Nieuwoudt points out, while the variety originated in Germany in 1864 as a cross between Sylvaner and Schiava/Trollinger, there's very little of it left in the Rhine et al and the biggest plantings in the 21st century are in South Africa, albeit less than 40ha, of which 13ha are in the Cederberg. Effectively then, about one third of the world's production of Bukettraube takes place at Cederberg Wines – 60 000 to 75 000 bottles a year, much of which is sold to restaurants and, export-wise, in the USA.

Many Bukettraube vineyards comprise bush vines that are subject to a lot of sunlight and the grapes have thicker skins, says Nieuwoudt. Unlike the Cederberg, where from grapes grown on trellised vines at over 1000m above sea level, the wine is more floral in character compared to other aromatic varieties such as Gewürztraminer and Muscat. “Cederberg Bukettraube is more delicate and has a higher natural acidity. It's never fermented dry. We stop the fermentation by way of adding natural sugar, but not so that it's cloying as a result – you get a sweet entry with a dry finish.”

CEDERBERG BUKETTRAUBE 2024
WO Cederberg, classified as semi-sweet. 13ha of trellised vines, 20 years old on average, irrigated as needs be. Grapes harvested in the early morning, crushed at 8°C, juice left in contact with the skins for ±8hrs before a light pressing. After two days of settling, the juice is racked and commercial yeast added. Winemaking under reductive conditions using dry ice and CO2. Fermentation at 14°C for four to five days.
Alc 13 | RS 24 | TA 7.7 | pH 3.2
Tasting Notes by Sandy Harper CWM: Leads with a perfumed nose of nectarine, peach kernel, delicate white blossoms and subtle hints of Muscat. The palate delivers a delicate sweetness, offset by a spicy preserved-ginger note and a tangy, saline finish. Best one to five years after vintage.
Food Pairing Suggestions: Good match for sweet spice and salty flavours. Try with haloumi salad, rocket and ginger preserve, or pair with a Thai chicken and cashew stir-fry. A winner with Cape-Malay curry, or roasted butternut soup with a hint of masala.
R130pb ex-cellar.