IN YEAR ONE of the Covid-19 crisis, wine consumption internationally dropped by [just] 3%. “A Year of Resilience”, was how the director general of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) Pau Roca described 2020 at the OIV’s 2021 conference about the state of the world, viticulturally and viniculturally speaking. From the OIV’s headquarters in Paris, Roca reported