THE CONTENTIOUS issue of wine ratings and awards continues to flare up from time to time, with outspoken wine lovers, wine scribes, critics and judges at odds with each other to the point of disbelief, even outrage. The problem? Firstly, there's not enough consensus regarding which scoring system to use – star ratings aside, there are different versions of the 100-point scale and long gone are the days when a gold medal stood for first place in the wine arena. Secondly, there's disagreement as to the definitions or meanings of the various ratings and awards. Some competition organisers stop short of providing any explanations whatsoever, leaving the interpretation in your court, so to speak.
Of course, there will always be differences of opinion about precisely how much or how little we like a wine – we're entitled to preferences and favourites. However, among qualified, experienced panel members entrusted with wine reviews that matter, there should be an understanding if not a respect for various types and styles such that a wine cannot be scored as heavenly by one or two panellists and awful by one or two others. But should this be the case, even after discussion, the panel chair should choose whose opinion to override in settling on a rating that is not hugely compromised by the averaging effect that would otherwise take place.
That said, there seems to be little chance in the short-term of getting everyone to agree on a scoring system and rating definitions that are universally adhered to. The UK's highly-regarded Jancis Robinson OBE MW likes to score according to a 20-point system, which is what various wine publications based their star ratings on. Most wine challenges and taste-offs culminate in the awarding of medals and trophies, although for some years many of the competition conveners have also been reporting scores out of 100, as have the majority of wine publications. Platter's SA Wine Guide publishes star ratings, points out of 100 and Wine of the Year awards based on the top scores awarded in each of the categories featuring 5 Star wines – 5 Stars equating to a score of 95+ in their books.
South Africa's Winemag.co.za uses a 100-point scoring system, and according to editor Christian Eedes, 88 to 89 is roughly equivalent to a bronze medal, 90 to 92 a silver medal and 93+ a gold medal. 5 Stars, he says, is roughly equivalent to 93 points, with 95 and up reserved for the world's very best wines. Consequently, most of Winemag's favourites are scored in a narrow band from 90 to 93, with wines they describe as excellent scored the equivalent of silver.
Trophy Wine Show convener, chairman of the judges and leading SA wine critic Michael Fridjhon uses a wider spread: 80 to 89 for silver (excellent, wine of distinction), and 90+ for gold (superlative, world class). On his website WineWizard.co.za he says 90 points according to his scale equates to 93 using the 100-point system applied internationally and by some local publications.
Regarding the major wine awards in the UK: at the Decanter World Wine Awards they present gold for a score of 95 or 96 and platinum for 97+, whereas at both the International Wine & Spirit Competition and International Wine Challenge gold equates to 95+, with all three competitions differentiating high silver (93 and 94) from silver (90 to 92). British Master of Wine Tim Atkin says his scores of 90 to 94 equate to silver and 95+ to gold, although the numbers on his bottle stickers are not based on blind tastings but with the labels in sight, and on individual assessments rather than those of a panel.
A high silver (silver outstanding) has also been introduced at South Africa's Veritas Awards, but for a score of 86 to 89 – versus 90 to 92 for gold and 93+ for double gold. While at the country's Michelangelo Awards they have gold at 89 to 93 points, double gold at 93 to 95 and platinum at 96+.
So what's the bottom line, if you want the most highly recommended wines? Be mindful that scores in the low 90s can mean silver rather than gold, with silver translated as better than excellent in some quarters but less than excellent in others. Go for gold or 90+ in terms of the Trophy Wine Show, otherwise 93+ (or 95+ in Platter's), or double gold, platinum or trophy. If the panel scores it 97+, take out a loan if you have to!
0 Responses
About competitions: “[Let’s] get unified and make every damn gold medal 95 points, finish and klaar! [As things stand] they only frustrate the public and enthusiasts while the producers selectively advertise and inflate their wines according to the results, sometimes inappropriately so.”