South Africa’s niche wines deserving of attention outside mainstream categories – some better value than others
CHARLES BACK remembers well the first plantings of Viognier on his Fairview farm in Paarl back in the 1990s. Who knew then what would work where when it came to experimenting with grape varieties not widely planted in South Africa, if at all, but new or unusual is very appealing to winemakers looking for a USP, something exciting. And wow has this white Rhône cultivar taken off throughout the Cape in terms of both varietal wines and blends, white and red. It has surely gone beyond niche. Today there must be around 100 on the market, with really good Viognier reviews for 15 producers by top judging panels during the past couple of years alone and eight wines eligible for the SA Viognier Classification spanning the past 10 years.
Back describes the launch of Goats do Roam wines as “a catalyst for many opportunities” at Fairview and for the industry in general, particularly in terms of Rhône/French varieties though also Italian and others. And whereas he once farmed exclusively in Paarl, he now has vineyards in Darling, the Swartland, Stellenbosch, Elim… Numerous other wine producers are also either experimenting or already succeeding with grapes outside the mainstream reds and whites. Some of these varieties have been in the Cape for a long time already but have had mediocre reputations prior to now, what with today’s winemakers knowing or doing a thing or two that their predecessors didn’t. On the other hand, there have been varieties which have always commanded respect but whose success was mainly limited to blends.
A red grape that might not seem to have quite the same sales potential as Viognier but which is also climbing out of the ‘niche’ category is Cabernet Franc, typically blended together with other Bordeaux varieties, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There have been some 50 single-varietal versions on the market at one time or other and in the past 18 months 13 producers have achieved good to great Cab Franc reviews from at least one of the top panels, with five wines included in the 2014 Classification.
Within various portfolios under the Fairview, Spice Route, Goats do Roam and La Capra banners, Back and his winemaking team led by Anthony de Jager and Charl du Plessis (Spice Route) field more niche varieties than any other producer in South Africa. We’re talking Barbera, Carignan, Cinsaut, Grenache Noir and Grenache Blanc, Malbec, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah (Durif), Pinot Grigio/Gris, Riesling, Tannat, Sangiovese, Tempranillo… And it’s not just as single-varietal wines that these provide interest value – some of the interesting blends include the Nurok combination of Viognier, Chenin, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, the Fairview Cap Classique sparkling wine from Viognier, Grenache Noir and Grenache Blanc, the Extraño combo of Grenache Noir, Carignan and Tempranillo, as well as Spice Route’s Chakalaka and Malabar, both blends of Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah, Grenache and Tannat – the Chakalaka with some Carignan added.
Vintages of the following niche wines from South Africa have been recommended by one or more of the top tasting panels internationally, with the prices given below being those charged per bottle at the cellar door for the most recent release in each case. Something delightfully different, if you will.
BARBERA – RED, ITALIAN
Merwida – 2011 vintage @ R60
Renosterbos (Hofstraat) – 2012 vintage @ R150
CARIGNAN – RED, SPANISH
Fairview – 2011 vintage @ R116