GIULIO BERTRAND’S spread in Somerset West is a fine place to visit. The restaurant 95 at Morgenster serves superb, authentic fare with an Italian slant (e.g. great lamb ravioli!) to complement the good wines, a number of which are made from Italian varieties. It’s with French cultivars, however, that Morgenster has had most success on the world stage: the Bordeaux-style Reserve is one of South Africa’s leading red blends, included in the Top Wine SA Hall of Fame and one of the country’s precious few available across a span of vintages from the estate – ranging from the recently released 2014 to wines that are over 10 years old.

The Cabernet Franc vines that contribute to the Reserve are of the older generations on the farm, having proven themselves, so to speak. Whereas the grapes that cellarmaster Henry Kotze uses for the single-varietal wine typically come from younger vines that aren’t yet expected to deliver the level of complexity required for the Reserve. In part then, it was somewhat surprising when Morgenster made the cut for the Top 6 in the 2018 Cab Franc Challenge with the 2015 vintage of a wine that is modest in reputation, relative to the flagship. In part though, it speaks of a farm with a reputation for top quality and interest value across the Bordeaux spectrum: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.

Perhaps it’s too soon to speculate about a Cab Franc specialist in the making, but adding fuel to the fire, as it were, was the launch of another wine made exclusively from this variety: a Cap Classique sparkler, would you believe, Cuvée Alessandra, extra dry they say of the very first bubbly from Morgenster, named after one of Bertrand’s daughters!

MORGENSTER CABERNET FRANC 2015
One of the earliest harvests in 40 years. From one of the farm’s younger vineyards. First vintage bottled under screwcap.
Alc 13.5 | R/S 2.4 | TA 5.2 | pH 3.8
Winemaker’s Tasting Note: lush cassis, concentrated fruit and cinnamon, with peanut and clove-like spice; smooth; flavours of black currants, cherries and plums; undertones of warm spice and tobacco; made to be enjoyed within a few years of bottling.
Winemaker’s Food Tips: pairs well with roasts and hearty fish dishes.
Cellar-Door Price: R107 pb