OF COURSE, South African Sauvignon Blanc can be one of the most rewarding varieties, a seriously enjoyable white when the winemakers are on their game and the grapes come from the right vineyards. But darn, the chances of success could be better. Chardonnay, especially, as well as Chenin Blanc, are generally more reliable, better bang for your buck – whether you just want good quaffability or are up for something rather more interesting. When it comes to Sauvignon Blanc, best that you aim higher, go for wines with really good track records and pay more than the average – or take your chances in a category quite capable of delivering a glass of something you might quickly tire of.

Top Wine SA recently fielded the following comment: “Everyone has been duped into thinking that Sauvignon Blanc is the classy option to have available at parties, launches and in the chilled section of wine shops. Really! People should start thinking harder about the flavours they are tasting and switch to Chardonnay, which is clearly a more flavoursome wine.” A curious statement, given that Sauvignon can be packed with flavour. No doubt the criticism has more to do with many a Sauvignon being simple, too predictable, one-dimentional – particularly the cheaper ones – and it would seem that critics around the world are in agreement. Of the Top 100 South African wines when it comes to best track records over the past 10 years, just four are Sauvignon Blanc, versus 14 Chardonnay and nine Chenin Blanc. And in terms of the 2020 Top Wine SA Hall of Fame, only two Sauvignon Blancs were eligible, versus six Chardonnays and the same number of Chenins.

Most Sauvignon Blanc is unwooded and costs less than Chardonnay, generally speaking. There are still some good SA Sauvignons retailing for less than R100 a bottle, whereas the majority of decent SA Chardonnays are going for between R150 and R200pb or more. However, look at the Top 10 Sauvignons from the Cape and six are R200-plus per bottle – standout exceptions including Cederberg at R100, Diemersdal Eight Rows at R150 and Tokara Reserve Collection at R140 (the latter in the Hall of Fame, together with Ghost Corner at R200). In comparison, all of the Top 10 Chardonnays are priced at R200 or more, e.g. Rustenberg Five Soldiers at R410, with only three of the Top 20 at under R200 – Eikendal at R190, Rustenberg Stellenbosch at R185 and Fleur du Cap Series Privée at R150. As for Chenin: eight of the Top 10 and 14 of the Top 20 are at over R200, with standout exceptions led by the Perdeberg Dry Land Collection at R110 and Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection at R108.

The numbers tell the story. No matter which variety of wine you choose to pour at your party or function, the days of the good stuff ‘on tap’ at under R100 a bottle are almost at an end, even for Sauvignon Blanc. Or especially for Sauvignon Blanc! Team Chardonnay and Team Chenin have greater depth…