A FEW DECADES ago, wine lovers looking for recommendations as to which South African reds, whites or sweets were a cut above the rest might have relied on certification that the country’s Wine & Spirit Board had pronounced the contents of a bottle to be of ‘Superior’ quality. Then came the wine scribes, individual critics, local and international, offering either their learned opinions or their two cents’ worth as to which are the finest on the basis of sighted wine tastings, labels in full view. And then came panels of experts around the planet, tasting ‘blind’ (labels out of sight) in coming up with their collective assessments as to the standard and interest value of the wines – some panels more respected than others. But there are those for whom the wine judging process is too limited.

In recent times the concept of ‘Fine Wine’ has become more complicated for some, its definition the subject of debate among those who regard it as so much more than an alcoholic beverage. Many would rather it be regarded as an art form and some have banded together to lobby for special status. ARENI is a global institute dedicated to the future of Fine Wine, creating conversation platforms and bringing together critical thinkers, from iconic Fine Wine producers to leading academics and business leaders.

“While the wine ecosystem, from production to distribution, seems to agree on what Fine Wine is not – a wine of poor quality, that’s mass-produced, made using short-cuts and widely distributed – there is little agreement on what a ‘Fine Wine’ actually is.” So comments Pauline Vicard, co-founder and executive director of ARENI Global who was born into and raised by a winemaking family in Burgundy, France, and who is now based in London. “What does it take to be Fine? Is it merely the absence of impurities and faults, or should a Fine Wine also be superior in kind, quality or appearance to the vast majority of wines produced around the world?”

ARENI’s ‘White Paper’ on the subject, the 3rd edition of ‘Define Fine Wine’, was written by Vicard and edited by Felicity Carter, editor in chief of the German publication Meininger’s Wine Business International. In it, Vicard ponders whether it is enough to define Fine Wines through established and recognised quality assessments, raising the importance of emotional and cultural dimensions as well as the intent of the winemaker. “Or did [British wine writer/author] Hugh Johnson get it right when he said that Fine Wine was, simply, ‘a wine worth talking about’?”

“To qualify as ‘Fine’,” writes Vicard, “a wine must display the classic attributes of high quality… It must show harmony and balance between its complex elements and engage both the nose and palate. These elements must have the ability to evolve and improve with time, while remaining interesting at every stage of its development.”

Among others quoted in the paper is American Zelma Long, one of the owners of Vilafonté, their vineyards in Paarl, their cellar in Stellenbosch. “A Fine Wine reflects the character of its cultivar, shows intensity/concentration of flavour, and thus, length on the palate; has complexity/diversity of flavours, internal harmony between aromatics and the palate, and balance between its essential components.”

UK critic, journalist and Master of Wine Jancis Robinson opines that fine wine “has charm, refreshment, intrigue, balance, ageing potential, development in the glass, terroir expression, persistence and memorability. In short,” she says, “it is wine that improves in both glass and bottle, and, as well as an interesting nose, spreads across the palate and builds towards the finish.”

However, Vicard suggests that wine (also) needs an emotional dimension to reach the Fine Wine level: “The ability to affect the drinker in a way that’s comparable to a work of art, by forging a link between the masterpiece and the drinker’s inner self… opening a window to the soul.” And giving his view, Master of Wine Andrew Caillard, co-founder of Laington’s Classification of Australian Wine, reasons that: “Fine Wine is real estate of the mind. Its aesthetic value, meaning and appreciation are proportionate to the individual’s experience, aspirations and cultural perspectives.”

According to the results of market research commissioned by ARENI in partnership with London-based Wine Intelligence which tested the importance of the different attributes of Fine Wine in the USA, the UK and China, the following is what ‘regular wine drinkers’ associate most with Fine Wine: (1) balanced and harmonious taste, (2) consistency over time and across vintages, and (3) originating from a famous wine-growing region. Least associated with Fine Wine was whether or not it has a high price, and whether or not it is produced sustainably – albeit that, based on ARENI research, most makers of Fine Wine place great importance on the sustainability of what they do.

For more details of the research findings or to download ARENI’s White Paper, click here.