Experts agree: ‘Top 10’ Chenins show detail, refinement, complexity

HOW ABOUT THAT! Less than a month after the 2020 Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin in DGB’s Bellingham portfolio was included among South Africa’s Top 10 Challenge winners, it went on to score 95/100 at the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC) in London. The 2020 Donkiesbaai Steen from the Guardian Peak cellar is also a multiple award winner, having received good reviews at Mondial (BE) and the Decanter Awards (UK) before its Top 10 selection. And Kleine Zalze continued their winning streak with a trophy for the 2020 vintage of their Family Reserve Chenin at the Michelangelo Awards (SA).

After the 2021 Challenge, judging panel chair James Pietersen remarked that there’d been evidence of more [grape] skin contact during the fermentation process, more natural fermentation [wild yeast] and winemakers using a wide variety of both fermentation and maturation vessels, from amphorae to older and larger barrels as well as concrete eggs and tanks. “Overall, we noticed a lighter touch in winemaking style… with less overt wooding and lower residual sugars. There were greater numbers of fresher, more youthful, salty and savoury wines, showing persistence and length. Those we finally chose are all wines of detail, refinement and complexity.” And clearly many critics are of a similar opinion!

 

CHENIN BLANC TOP 10 CHALLENGE WINNERS

 

Bellingham Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2020
WO Coastal. Vines 37-49 years old. Wooding in French oak barrels: 32% new, 30% second-fill, 30% foudre. 8% in terracotta amphora.
Acl 13.4 | RS 3.8 | TA 6.3 | pH 3.4
Chenin Challenge Judges’ Tasting Notes: Shy at first, with elegant oak notes, tropical fruit and citrusy spritz freshness. Concentrated and ripe on the palate, with a juicy, powerful and chalky finish.
R189pb ex-cellar, Franschhoek Cellar
Proprietors DGB, Winemaker Richard Duckitt

DeMorgenzon Reserve Chenin Blanc 2020
WO Stellenbosch. Vines 49 years old. Fermentation in French oak barrels, 20% new. Matured in barrel for 10 months.
Alc 13.9 | RS 2.4 | TA 5.8 | pH 3.5
Chenin Challenge Judges’ Tasting Notes: Perfumed oak spice with, hay, peach and quince fruit, opening onto a juicy palate, with good acidity, well-integrated oak and purity of flavour. Persistent and powerful.
R430pb ex-cellar, Stellenbosch Kloof
Proprietor Wendy Appelbaum, Winemaker Carl van der Merwe

Donkiesbaai Steen 2020
WO Piekenierskloof. Grapes from two vineyards 20 & 38 years old. 50% in new and second-fill French oak barrels, plus concrete eggs and clay amphora.
Alc 14.3 | RS 3.8 | TA 5.7 | pH 3.2
Chenin Challenge Judges’ Tasting Notes: Fresh perfumed, lemon/lime aroma, with bright fruit and the added complexity of dried apple and pineapple concentration. Firm, textured palate with good acidity and integrated, linear finish.
R275pb ex-cellar, Guardian Peak, Helderberg-tellenbosch
Proprietor Jean Engelbrecht, Winemaker Danielle le Roux

Ken Forrester Terre Noire Chenin Blanc 2020
WO Swartland. Grapes from two vineyards 35 & 37 years old. 400L French oak barrels, 30% new, the rest second-fill and older.
Alc 13.1 | RS 2.9 | TA 6.0 | pH 3.3
Chenin Challenge Judges’ Tasting Notes: Fresh, fragrant nose with notes of fynbos, melon, white stone fruit. Deep-fruited on the palate, yet understated and delicate with good oaking. Balanced and finely crafted.
R295pb ex-cellar, Helderberg-Stellenbosch
Proprietors Ad Vini & Forrester Family, Winemaker Ken Forrester

Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Old Bush Vine Chenin Blanc 2020
WO Stellenbosch. Vines 40 years old. Wooded in 400L second-, third- and fourth-fill French oak barrels. One 500L amphora.
Acl 13.6 | RS 4.8 | TA 6.4 | pH 3.3
Chenin Challenge Judges’ Tasting Notes: Poised tropical notes and beeswax, leading to a layered and concentrated palate. Focused and linear with lots of detail – good oak, acidity and savoury interest with a long, refined finish.
R240pb ex-cellar, Stellenbosch
Proprietor Kobus Basson, Winemaker RJ Botha

Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2020
WO Stellenbosch. Vines 30 years old. No new oak, only older French barrels, plus, for the first time a portion in amphora.
Alc 13.4 | RS 6.1 | TA 6.8 | pH 3.2
Chenin Challenge Judges’ Tasting Notes: Shy, with lovely spice, lemony pith and notes of elderflower. Attractive reduction leads to tight, nervy and nicely saline entry with lean, powerful acidity. Loads of energy.
R120pb ex-cellar, Stellenbosch
Proprietor Kobus Basson, Winemaker RJ Botha

Lievland Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2020
WO Paarl. Grapes from two vineyards 38 and 45 years old. 50% neutral oak.
R160pb ex-cellar, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch
Alc 13.0 | RS 2.5 | TA 6.3 | pH 3.4
Chenin Challenge Judges’ Tasting Notes: Ripe tropical, green pear and blood orange notes with toasty oak complexity, broad and open nose, and a mouth-watering acidity and balancing bright mango to end with a ripe lemon send-off.
Proprietors MAN Family Wines, Winemaker Riaan Möller

Simonsig Chenin Avec Chêne 2019
WO Stellenbosch. Vines 35 years old. Wooding: 11 months in second-fill French 225L and 400L barrels.
Alc 13.2 | RS 3.1 | TA 6.8 | pH 3.1
Chenin Challenge Judges’ Tasting Notes: Nectarine, citrus, and light fynbos character, supported by subtle oak. Taut and coiled with youthful, flinty energy leading to a saline- and fynbos-laced dry palate that is wonderfully understated. Precise.
R195pb ex-cellar, Koelenhof-Stellenbosch
Proprietors Malan Family, Winemaker Charl Schoeman

Solitude Chenin Blanc 2020
WO Swartland. Vines 14 years old. 100% second-fill French oak barrels.
Alc 3.1 | RS 3.9 | TA 6.5 | pH 3.3
Chenin Challenge Judges’ Tasting Notes: Some elderflower notes, shy floral perfume, delicate herbal/fynbos and spice on the nose leading to a delicate, earthy and savoury palate, nougat complexity and zippy, pointed, lemon-like acidity. Something different.
R240pb ex-cellar, Le Belle Rebelle, Rawsonville-Breedekloof
Proprietor Pieter Stofberg, Winemaker Mariette Stofberg-Coetzee

Stellenrust Old Bush Vine Chenin Blanc 2020
WO Stellenbosch. Vines 42 years old. 7 months in old 225L French oak barrels, fourth- and fifth-fill.
Alc 13.9 | RS 3.6 | TA 7.4 | pH 3.1
Chenin Challenge Judges’ Tasting Notes: Some attractive reduction followed by honeyed melon, a hint of apricot, ripe tropical fruit and ginger spice lead to good oak presence, balanced by a piercing acidity. Rich, waxy and full ripe in style with fine acidity for palate definition. Serious and expressive.
R300pb ex-cellar, Helderberg-Stellenbosch
Proprietors Van der Westhuizen & Boshoff Families, Winemaker Tertius Boshoff

 

 

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