SALSIFY at the Roundhouse on the slopes of Table Mountain in Camps Bay, Cape Town, was judged South Africa's No. 1 restaurant at the 2025 Eat Out Awards. Chef-Patron Ryan Cole and his team have been on top form for a number of years, so what to expect of his second outfit, COY, opened in September '24, “hidden in plain sight” between the Cape Grace Hotel and the Time Out Market at Cape Town's V&A Waterfront. Great views of the harbour to one side and Table Mountain on another. The decor is chic, modern, the staff is professional and the food is very good.
According to COY, it's “about unearthing Africa's often-overlooked treasures, from uncovering ancient cooking techniques to rediscovering culinary stories and exploring indigenous ingredients.” How high the rating of what's on the plates and how it's presented are judgement calls best left to the teams of restaurant critics retained by the country's Gourmet Guide and Eat Out Awards. However, besides the space, the chefs and the menus, many guests are just as interested in what's being poured…
The winelist at the time of writing and the pairing options experienced point to an establishment familiar with some of the best while exploring the Cape winelands in search of discoveries. Beginning with the bubblies, the power of Champagne brands is evident in there being nearly three times as many French sparklers on offer as there are South African Cap Classiques made according to the same method. Of the MCCs listed, these include wines with established reputations such as Boschendal Jean Le Long, Des Dieux Claudia and Newstead Brut Blanc de Blanc, but no room for any Graham Beck or Villiera though – maybe to avoid being predictable.
Apart from the Champagnes, two French Rosés and a couple of ‘international reds', the winelist is entirely South African. Turning to the Chardonnays, no Delaire Graff, Jordan or Paul Cluver, but there's Kershaw and Capensis. Glorious Chenins from Alheit, Badenhorst, Ken Forrester, Sadie… although no Stellenrust. Lovely white blend listings including Artistagos, Cartology, Rall and Palladius, as well as some really mature stuff such as the 2013 Metis Sauvignon Blanc from Klein Constantia and the white blends Naudé 2010, Palladius 2013 and Sijnn 2016.
As for the reds on offer, again just to give some examples of the standouts, there are Syrahs from Kershaw, Luddite and Porseleinberg, the Cabernets feature Boekenhoutskloof and Rustenberg Peter Barlow, there are blends from De Toren, Kanonkop, Raats, Sadie and Vilafonté, whereas the ‘minorities' include a Barbera from Trizanne and the Treinspoor Tinta Barocca. Surprisingly, neither Beyerskloof nor Kanonkop feature among the Pinotage options. Whereas it's no surprise to see KC's Vin de Constance and Grand Constance from Groot Constantia heading up the dessert wine choices.
At COY, the wine pairing is a collaborative effort involving wine steward Eben Mupupa, restaurant manager Pierre Broodryk and assistant manager Jemma Aldworth, together with co-head chefs Geoffrey Abrahams and Teenola Govender. “Working as a team,” says Mupupa, “we bring together different perspectives to create pairings that truly enhance the dining experience. Our chefs craft some of the most innovative and flavour-forward dishes in South Africa and it is essential that the wines we select either complement or elevate those flavours… For example, our coal-seared yellowfin tuna – topped with aubergine mesaka’a, sultana purée, and finished off with Foxenburg crottin cheese – is paired with the 2020 Klein Constantia Metis Sauvignon Blanc. The wine’s crisp acidity cuts through the richness of the aubergine and cheese while its citrus and mineral notes highlight the subtle sweetness of the sultana purée and the smoky sear on the tuna. Another highlight is the braaied kingklip – served with a fresh turmeric and coconut curry, topped with radicchio and finished with a velvety potato cream – paired with the 2016 Sijnn white blend from Malgas. The Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Roussanne bring layered textures, stone fruit and spice that echo and uplift the warm spices of the curry and the creaminess of the dish, while the wine’s natural acidity balances the richness beautifully.”
The price of the food and wine? This is fine dining. A restaurant appealing to the well-heeled and getting onto the radar of tourists paying in US dollars, Britsh pounds and Euros.
