Cap Classique! Perfected by time, to enjoy anytime, a never-ending story
IT HAS TO BE one of the most famous quotes to do with wine: “I only drink Champagne when I’m happy, and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I am not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I’m thirsty.” By Lily Bollinger (1899–1977), proprietor of Bollinger near the French village of Aÿ from 1941 to 1971.
Who said bubbly is for celebrations only! And who says it must be Champagne!! Graham Beck and Bon Courage of Robertson, Desiderius, Simonsig and Villiera of Stellenbosch, Laborie of Paarl, Des Dieux of Hemel-en-Aarde… The choice of South Africa’s best bottle-fermented sparkling wines runs to a dozen or two, the complete list exceeding 100. And among the best-value recommendations in this category has to be that of the non-vintage Kleine Zalze Brut from Stellenbosch: R136 a bottle ex-cellar for one of the Top 10 in Winemag’s 2020 Cap Classique Report.
Most wine lovers are aware of the different hues and sweetness levels that apply to the various sparkling wine categories, however few are familiar with the importance of time in the method of production. The producers association is lobbying with the authorities to bring about a change in the law that will make provision for at least two categories within the definition of Cap Classique that are based on the period the wine is on the lees, i.e. in the bottle, on the spent yeast, before degorgement and sealing with a cork. The time that the wine spends in contact with the lees, before its removal, is a key factor in the character and complexity of the aroma and flavour.
For those looking forward to a trip into the winelands of the Cape to taste and learn more about or buy some of South Africa’s lovely bubblies at source, new on the Cap Classique route is the Silverthorn cellar alongside the Breede River in the Robertson district. This is the home of Karen and John Loubser, previously in charge of Steenberg in Tokai on the Constantia Wine Route and nowadays focusing on labels including The Green Man, The Genie, Jewel Box and Big Dog, each with a story to tell.
