On the mountain slopes in the south-eastern extremities of Franschhoek

BOTH OF the top-scoring wines in Winemag’s 2021 Cape White Blend Report were from the Wildeberg outfit in Franschhoek. A pretty impressive showing by Cellarmaster JD Rossouw and the team, and not for the first time. Last year, the 2019 Wildeberg Red blend was selected among the winners of the Shiraz SA Challenge, while another red combo, the 2019 Underworld Blend 3, came top of its class at the Trophy Wine Show. Now they’re the recipients of ‘outstanding’ reviews for their 2020 Coterie Chenin Blanc & Grenache Blanc and The Tea Leaf 2020, also with Chenin taking the lead but this time teamed up with Crouchen Blanc and Palomino – and when last did you hear about those two varieties!

‘Coterie’ refers to ‘a circle of friends with the same interest’. The label includes an illustration of a cheeky-looking blue-faced lizard?! The Chenin (from really old vines) and the white Grenache complement each other well. But The Tea Leaf has a more interesting story. There are vineyards in the Piekenierskloof outside Citrusdal where rooibos (red tea) plants are to be found growing wild amongst the vines. The juice from these grapes is almost grey, with hints of green-tea aromas. That said, the tea notes also come from the barrels in which the fermentation takes place.

For the 2020 Cape White Blend Report, Wildeberg submitted the 2018 vintage of their Tea Leaf, which emerged as one of the Winemag panel’s Top 10 on that occasion. Back then all of the blend components originated in Piekenierskloof, whereas the grapes for the 2020 vintage include just 14% from that ward, the balance from Paarl and Franschhoek. All over-40-year-old vines, and no less then 42% Crouchen Blanc, once marketed as Cape Riesling or SA Riesling before being correctly identified and downplayed somewhat as less ‘noble’ than so-called Rhine or Weisser Riesling. How about that! We’ve witnessed top SA winemakers perform marvels using the humble Colombar(d), and perhaps making a top-notch wine from 100% Crouchen is next on their ‘to do’ list.

COTERIE CHENIN BLANC & GRENACHE BLANC 2020
WO Coastal Region. 67% Chenin Blanc, from a Franschhoek vineyard planted in 1962, and 33% Grenache Blanc, from younger plantings in Paarl. Naturally fermented in 600L French oak barrels, 65% second-fill and 35% third-fill, no new oak. 2080 bottles. Cork closure.
Alc 13.5 | RS 2.9 | TA 6.0 | pH 3.4
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: On the nose a note of jasmine flowers over warm sand and crushed rocks, following through onto the palate with a breadth of texture and generosity… veiled with white spice and exotic notes…
Winemag’s Tasting Notes: Yellow fruit, some leesy complexity, earth and spice on the nose, while the palate shows good density, tangy acidity and a savoury finish. Powerful but equally very characterful.
Producer’s Food Recommendations: Will marry with gentle Malay and Thai green fish curries, dishes with lemongrass and coriander, or braai-ed linefish.
R170pb ex-cellar.

THE TEA LEAF 2020 – A NATURALLY FERMENTED BUSH VINE BREW
WO Western Cape: Paarl Chenin Blanc (44%), Franschhoek Crouchen Blanc (42%), Piekenierskloof Palomino (14%). Hand-picked, followed by a further hand-selection at the winery. Natural fermentation in 600L French oak barrels. Matured on the lees (spent yeast) for 10 months before gentle racking and bottling. 5328 bottles. Cork closure.
Alc 13.5 | RS 2.5 | TA 5.8 | pH 3.4
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: Complex sandy stone-fruit nose with notes of crushed granite, slightly saline. Broad texture. Persistent finish.
Winemag’s Tasting Notes: Beguiling aromatics of flowers and herbs to go with white and yellow fruit, while the palate is broad with good texture and fresh acidity before a long and gently savoury finish. Plenty of detail.
Producer’s Food Recommendations: Simply-cooked fish dishes, scallops, salt-and-pepper squid or fishcakes, light seafood pasta, risotto, rich salads and sushi.
R105pb ex-cellar.